Ma Salaama, Part 2. Looking Back

A Kuwaiti tried to run me off the road tonight. I was driving home on the 30 when a black Caprice ran up behind me and flashed his brights. The lane next to me was full, so I couldn't get over. With no way to get out of his way, I sped up a bit and stayed in my lane.

He started flashing his brights on and off continuously and rode up so close that I couldn't see the lights themselves. I flipped down my rearview mirror and tapped my brake lights. He bumped the back of my car twice and then swerved into the breakdown lane. Halfway through passing me, while his rear door was in line with my front door, he swerved back into my lane. I slammed on my brakes, and so did he. We went from 140 to 100 in about a second.

I screamed and shook my fist out the window. I tailed him for about twenty minutes after that. As soon as he pulled over, I was going to show him what happened when you pulled that shit in America. I'm happy he never stopped or came up on a red light. Somewhere in the middle of this chase, I realized that I didn't want to get arrested for assault in my last two weeks in Kuwait. I pulled off the highway, made a U-turn to go the opposite direction, and went home.

And that starts my look back at a year in Kuwait. The kid in the Caprice wasn't an overly aggressive driver. No, he was a typical Kuwaiti. And that incident on the road is typical of the interactions I've had with Kuwaitis in the last twelve months. When people ask me if I enjoy living here, I tell them that I love living in the Middle East, but I hate living in Kuwait. And when people ask me if I'll miss this place, I say the same thing: I promise I'll come back to Arabia, but I'll never come back to Kuwait.

Kuwait is the most hypocritical, racist, godless, backward country I have ever seen. It's country that enforces Ramadan by law but ignores its poor and homeless. A country whose government gives millions of dollars in charity every year has a population that wouldn't give the time of day to a foreigner. It's a country whose women wear silk veils and skin tight capris, and whose men dress in dishdashas and listen to Eminem. When I first came here, I thought Kuwait was a nation of contrasts. Now I think it's a nation of hypocrites.

My American co-workers are amazed when I tell them that I have Arab friends. They haven't traveled around the Middle East, and the only Arabs they've seen are you Kuwaitis. Every Kuwaiti they've met is a rude and concieted xenophobe, and they think all Arabs are the same as you. It takes a long time for me to explain that Arabs in Egypt, Jordan and Lebanon are kind and humble and helpful and that they hate Kuwaitis, too. When I first traveled to Jordan, I told people I was an American living in Kuwait. I thought I would get some nasty lectures about America, but I only got nasty lectures about Kuwait. Everybody I talked with told me about relatives of theirs in America and how much they loved it. Most people also had stories about relatives in Kuwait, or meeting Kuwaiti people, and how much they hated them. I couldn't mention Kuwait without hearing a long rant about what a bad reputation Kuwaitis have. Kuwait, you're a disgrace. Everybody outside your country despises you, even your fellow Muslims and Arabs. After living among you for twelve months, I think your reputation is well deserved.

And here come the comments: “But Michael, haven't you met any real Kuwaitis?” Yes, yes, I have. I've made every effort to meet Kuwaitis at the beaches, in the dive shops and outside the sheesha bars. I've chatted with probably a hundred Kuwaitis since coming here, but I haven't met a single one that had any interest in striking up a friendship with a foreigner. Yet I count Egyptians, Filipinos and Indians among my friends. It seems that foreigners are happy to meet other foreigners, while the locals here view everybody else as their servants.

My opinion of Kuwait isn't based on a few incidents of road rage. It's based on an earnest effort to examine and understand Kuwaiti culture. I've spoken with people all over Kuwait, from rich housewives to idle businessmen, from native-born Arabs to immigrant Sri Lankans. And I can confidently say that I have a clear understanding of Kuwait. I would even go so far as to say that I have a clearer understanding of Kuwait than most Kuwaitis. How many Kuwaitis have lived in the ghetto next to the poor immigrants who make up nearly seventy percent of this country? How many Kuwaitis reading this have limited their social interaction to just a third of the population?

I'll throw the question back at you: Have you, Kuwaiti, made any foreign friends? Maybe you've chatted with a few Americans or met the Canadian who teaches your kids. But have you made any effort to become friends with any of them? And what about the others? Do you know Indians or Bangladeshis? Have you ever said anything to a Filipino other than, “Excuse me, excuse me. Bring me my water. Hurry up, bring it now.”? You racist hypocrites. Most of the Indians and Bangladeshis coming to this country are Muslims, but you treat them like scum. In a religion where the whole ulemma is supposed to be equal, Kuwait emphasizes the distinction between first- and third-world more strongly than anywhere else. The Muslim community in Kuwait is equal only for as long as the prayers last. When they finish, you split into two groups: Kuwaitis and everybody else.

Maybe I'm so offended by this racism because I'm American. The US has a nasty history of racism toward immigrants, and we've worked so hard to remove that legacy that we're more likely to notice discrimination, whether at home or abroad. There are lot of things that I hate about Kuwait that I can forgive-the horrible traffic, the religious conservatism, the political repression. But I can't forgive your racism. Even by your own laws, it's forbidden. The first person the Prophet sent to pray at Mecca was an African, a former slave. 1400 years later, you import Bangladeshis, take their passports, put them to work, and refuse to pay them. Is that not slavery? Do you think the Prophet would approve of your country? Nobody else in the world approves, and I don't think he would approve either. Do you think Kuwait is a great country? Take a walk through Mangaf and see if the people living there feel the same way.

Unfortunately, any discussion of Kuwait among Kuwaitis ultimately deadlocks at one word: Guantanamo. Kuwaitis spend so much time (justifiably) criticizing America that they refuse to look at their own problems. I won't say that the US is perfect, but it's a hell of a lot better than this country. Even Arab Muslims live better in America than they do in Kuwait. Three days after the anniversary of the Iraqi invasion, I can hardly believe that Americans died to save a country like this. I think we chose the wrong ally. I think we should have left you under Saddam. Maybe a touch of repression would have given you a hint of sympathy for the people you repress. At the very least, Saddam would have made you work for your money.

Goodbye, Kuwait. Keep your little desert wasteland. You're a shame to Arabs everywhere.

Comments

[rampurple]

Hi... I am a non-kuwaiti yet i was upset with what i read.... not upset at you though, but upset that you weren't as lucky as i am. My friends are not racists... my group of friends come from all over the globe, including kuwaitis, americans, canadians, italians, french, lebanese, egyptian, syrian... and more. my kuwaiti friends were never racists and i know more kuwaiti people who are not. I wont tell you that you met the wrong people or went to the wrong places... i will just say its unfortunate.

[Toomi]

Wow. There's so much I want to discuss concerning your post. I won't get into it now though, if it isn't a waste of time (cuz it sounds like you've made up your mind about Kuwait & its people) I will post a longer reply.

For now all I want to say is I'm Kuwaiti & I have friends from all over the world. It seems like you've had a pretty shitty year and I'm sorry this has been your experience of Kuwait.

[Zeecu]

I'm Kuwaiti, and I can't blame you one bit. I'm saddened that the lasting impression on you was the one you've had. You're enraged at the kind of mentality the average Kuwaiti has towards foreigners, and although you're exaggerating, I still can't blame you. When on holiday or studying/working abroad, Kuwaitis experience varying levels of racism, and complain about the ignorance of those peforming those racist acts (verbal/physical assault, etc). What the average Kuwaiti needs to consider is his/her own racism against foreign nationals in Kuwait, who are just as human as everyone else.

This mentality of some Kuwaitis - being Kuwaiti - considering themselves superiour to everyone else has existed for a long time. Slowly, and especially after the 1990 invasion, those same people realized that there's no divinity or special status in being Kuwaiti, and just like every other human they are vulnerable and prone to fear, death, and all other matters they considered themselves shielded from in their special little bubble of a country.

The number of ignorant, racist, hypocrite Kuwaitis does surpass the number of ones who are otherwise, so I understand your experience of the common Kuwaiti. I also understand why fellow Arabs also despise Kuwaitis. Some of us have a habit of being the most annoying, most snobby SOBs when abroad.

All that aside, I assure you: Kuwaitis who aren't like the ones you've met do exist even though you haven't seen any. It's just as rampurple said: unfortunate.

[Joe]

Generalization is a bitch! Is all i have to say :)

[Najla R.]

I feel so sorry for you. As Joe said; Generalization is a bitch!. You haven't met me you haven't met many other Kuwaitis. I completely understand your point of view; infact I agree with a lot of it. I study at AUS in the UAE and compared to the other Arabs; you're right we're not that friendly or nice. Kuwaitis are the worst (in GENERAL) but it doesn't mean they're bad. Maybe they don't know how to 'talk' or for some reason i have a feeling you only met the uneducated ones. And don't forget in our society we are brought up (as females especially) not to talk to anyone because it would completely ruin our reputation it's not like America our culture is different and you should know that by now. Just because you saw a woman in Silk Veils and skin Tight Capris does not justify anything I can go on and on about the U.S and their women (don't get me started on your priests). Just because a guy in a dishdasha listens to Eminem does not make him a hypocrite. We are wearing our cultural clothes what do you want us to do completely conform to your likes? I'm sorry but you have Latinos in the U.S who listen to Eminem. Are they not 'correct' or not hypocritical simply because they wear JEANS? You're being ridiculous now and extremely judgmental. But there are the few who are not like that and they're not the ones you would see in the streets. They're the ones you would find keeping themselves busy with some sort of hobby because we can't just get to know people on the street we have a reputation to keep so we would do creative things and that way we can socialize with whoever is with us in our environment. And by the way you asked if any of us Kuwaitis have foreign friends? Almost all of my friends are foreign. In fact, my best friend is from New York. So please before you write and entire ESSAY about how bad we are, try to research a bit more and stop being biased.

[Hamad M.]

I'm Kuwaiti and I see what you mean but it isn't as bad as you think it is.

I do wear deshdasha, and not only do I listen to Eminem, I also listen to many other musicians from different countries and different cultures. I don't see how that is being hypocrite, I think it's about taste.

Regarding women in Kuwait, the majority don't dress up like that. However, if you still want to mention those, you shouldn't be mentioning guys in deshdashas in contrast because we do have plenty of guys that don't even have a deshdasha in their closet.

What I'm trying to say here is, you didn't make anything up, but your post is still biased. I could do pretty much the same with any country and any culture by mentioning some facts, and neglecting others. You mentioned bad Kuwaitis, but you left the good ones (did you really not see them?). I do realize that they're not a majority, but they're not very few either.

Finally, I doubt a typical Kuwaiti would go on to attack people of other races like that (whether he's racist or not and whether you're American or not). That's plain dumb. You're exaggerating a lot here. And I'm glad you survived the "assassination".

[Mark]

Maybe no Kuwaiti wanted to be your friend because YOU are such a racist! Its because of people like you if anything Kuwaitis don't want to be friends with foreigners. Why would they want to be? Most foreigners come to kuwait to make money, suck it dry and leave. You if anything are such a typical expat in Kuwait. Just because you are a dickhead and no one wants to be your friend don't blame it on the country. I am not a Kuwaiti but my best 2 friends are Kuwaiti.

[Edjamacated Guy]

There is no shame on the face of this Earth but your ass as it graces it. There is no bigger honor to a great country like Kuwait, but your ass leaving it. You're a disgrace to humanity, and Americans everywhere. You're a racist by definition, because as you make your friends, you clearly mark their nationalities. Kid, with an attitude like yours, I'd be surprised if your own mother loved you.

[Q]

You are the epitome of ignorance. Sad.

[Jazz Cantral]

You are entitled to your own opinion, but I have to say that you are closed minded. May I quote what you said...

"I've made every effort to meet Kuwaitis at the beaches, in the dive shops and outside the sheesha bars. I've chatted with probably a hundred Kuwaitis since coming here, but I haven't met a single one that had any interest in striking up a friendship with a foreigner."

Maybe this is due to the fact that you are so set in your mind and your hatred to Kuwait is strong that even if you have a decent conversation with a Kuwaiti, you will never change your mind about Kuwait. SO why bother. True, there are faults in this country, but you do not have the right to call Kuwait "Godless". If your speak about hypocrites...just look at your so-called country. Your entire lifestyle and government is based on hypocracy. I lived in the US for five years and immersed myself in the "culture". I have a lot of words to say about the US...but one thing is for sure...I will not GENERALIZE about the US..just like your did about Kuwait. All i can say about you...is good riddance!

[WhoCares]

As I was reading ur post, what got me the most is ur last paragraph about Saddam...how can u...a "liberal" american say that u would have rather had a dictatorship in Iraq invade one of the most democratic country in the region...YES, we do have our faults, but hell, at least our government LISTENS to us and takes care of us. YES, we do have a lot of human rights violations, racism, poverty, u name it, we have what any other country has. I lived in the US for 5 yrs and my thesis was about kuwait's image in the Arab world...we are hated in other arab countries because of our treatment to others, but at least there is a part of our population who realize that and try to fix relations with our neighbors. We are a young nation who is slowly opening up and democratizing, we don't need an ignorant american telling us our faults. Please...take a look at ur government's hypocritical foreign policy and stop urself before attacking ur country's "ally".

[The Stallion]

I forgot to add something in my comment and that something is in regards to your paragraph about Saddam! I have to say that if you were in Kuwait before Saddam invaded it in 1990 then you would have seen something completely different! People pre-1990 were better than what they are now!

For those who don't know where my first comment was it's on the next page along with Nibaq's comment!

[TarTar]

So it took you a year to come up with this insightful outlook of kuwait, this means youve been studying the Kwuaiti nation everyday in order to within a year undertsand and generalize this concept of yours. Sayin all these stuff doesnt make you any better then the few ppl youve encountered and commented about. maybe the few "foreginers" youve met are just like u in terms of not getting what they wanted from coming here in the first place. and those soldiers you disgrace by mentioning them in such a post should be honored, praised and prayed in both the US and Kuwait they fought for a cuase that is in both countries they fought for independence and more then any1 you americans should appreciate it. the problem with you americans is that you always feel so superior and better then others and when u come to a country that might differ in culture and attitude and probably might offer something you never dream of back home you start to assume the worst in them, please have a deep insightfull look at your country and try to bring all this hate and energy on bettering your country first, at least we Kuwaities know our problems and in our own time and pace try to change it unlike yourself a country with such history in racsim as you such mentioned and still goes through it shall i remind you of the K.K.K. that still exists in your amazin country. So please you wanna talk about somethin mention somethin that you already dont suffer off.
Contradiction is a very sharp knife that just cut your post and whatever unknown message you have into pieces.
btw what brought you here in the first place leavin your country for?!?

[Samson]

Michael, I am surprised that you being American had so much problem dealing with Kuwaitis. I was born and brought up in Kuwait and lived there 17 yrs but unfortuntaley I was a non-muslim, non-Arab. I completely agree with what you said pre-war at least with the majority of Kuwaitis and how they treat their foreign workers. I cannot comment on how the situation is now since i havent lived there for over a decade. I was hoping the younger generation educated in UK, canada, US and other parts of the world had a different outlook on other nationalities. I have read a few Blogs from Kuwaitis (at least they claim to be) and they did seem to be more civilized and cultured at least on the internet. I would like to visit Kuwait in the future for a few days to bring back memories of my childhood. Hopefully it will be a good one.

[Bader Nasser]

Or maybe we "Kuwaitis" find you "Mr.Cornn" an undesirable human being... Have you thought of that???

Anyhow, this is what my American friends and I think of your sad situation...

Good luck finding a better country than Kuwait...

[Ahmed]

Well.. where shall i start. First of all i agree with you with some stuff u said about kuwaitis but that still don't give u the right to judge a whole country. Yea we wear desdashs and listin to forgien music, is that a crime???? yea we drive like crazy sometimes.. so do people everywhere around the world.. yea we dislike some forginers because of what we have seen from them but we have never generlized an entire population. I am a kuwaiti and i am proud to be one. and redgarding you talking about our women here and how they dress, what wrong of trying to keep their good reputaion is that a crime too or i guess in the US girls have no reputation. I lived in the US for 7 years, have had so many friend from different countires including alot of US citiziens.

I want to make something clear kid, during the gulf war people who faught here, did that for a purpose and i guess someone with ur mentality would not understand that, people who died during the war wether they r amricans or what country they were from, they are honored and respected and until now we kuwaitis can't forget what these people did for us and we would always honor and respect these people who rescited their lives to free our country from a man who would have distroyed it rather than build it.

In my opinion man, i think you r the one with the problem solve ur issues first. you were probably neglected here because of the way u act or think.. and i agree with you that some arab countries hate us but not all the population a small percentage, there are alot of forginers in kuwait who were bored, lived here and they love it here and if you as them where would you prefer to live i garanty you that most of them would say i rather stay in kuwait, and that includes americans also who i know and r my friends too.

before you judge a whole country try to open your mind first about who you are and how you think caz from the looks of it u seem like a big losser who like to gossap alot.

[Human Being]

It seems to me that every issue in Kuwait you are criticizing, can also be criticized in the US. The foreigners that come here are not by any means forced to do so, they come here by choice, make more money than they can ever make in their country, complain, spit on this country and leave. If that is not hypocritical... I don't know what is. Latinos in the US work for under minimum wage, US operated sweatshops in Latin America is a growing problem, how about addressing that issue instead of bullying other countries as a foreign policy. Homelessness is not an issue in Kuwait, but it is a huge issue in the US. Anyone who is a traveller like yourself should be more tolerent and respectful of different cultures, what may seem rude to you is considered a norm in our society, and vice versa. The concept of hypocracy comes to my mind when the US supported Iraq against Iran, but then Kuwait against Iraq (although it worked to our favor) if that is not hypocritical... I dont know what is.

[papina]

I can see you had a bad year in Kuwait. I do not blame you with the traffic I had the same problem here and everywhere. This you will find in all countries. It is not unique to Kuwait.
I quote what you wrote:
"Kuwait, you're a disgrace. Everybody outside your country despises you, even your fellow Muslims and Arabs".
This quote applies to America all around the world. You are hated for your hypocrisy. Dishing out democracy to the world and yet you do not apply it to the full. Your media is dishing out only the stuff you want to hear. Have you made a survey why is America hated? I tell you, because they have people like you who are racist, arrogant and stereotyping. Typical !!!!!
I have very good friends who are Americans, British, Canadians and New Zealanders.
What is your problem with Kuwaitis wearing Dishdashas and listening to Eminems. Just like Indians wearing Saris and listening to Eminems. What a stupid remark. This shows your racist views of looking down on people who are different from you. You should have stayed at home.
Your soldiers fought a just war freeing people from occupation. Did your friends in the Arab world applaud you on your country's intervention in Iraq? I am sure they did not!!!!
But yet they kept telling you how wonderful you Americans are. I really feel sorry for your gullibility.
I quote from your Blog:
"Saddam would have made you work for your money." Thank you very much for your kind wishes. May you have the same?
You know I am glad you have left Kuwait. For Kuwait has no place for fascists like you. As for our wasteland it must have had some attraction that made you come to it. $$$$$$$$$$$ ;)

[black Widow]

You cannot say you know most Kuwaitis,you haven't even met half. It isn't fair for you to say ALL Kuwaitis are like that. When you meet each and every single Kuwaiti then you can give that assumption. Some of your points are right but you are a bit biased. By posting that you gave me the idea you are being what you hate. One of the reasons you hate Kuwaitis is because they judge people and think they are superior but aren't you doing the same when judging them? Doesn't that make YOU a Xenophobe?

[Tracy]

Hi. I am an American and disagree with you. I live Kuwait and I love it. I have so many Kuwaitis friends. They have been so supportive. I am sure you have met the bad few. I wish I knew you, I would have introduced you to my friends. Kuwait is a second home to me. Wish you all the best in your journey back home.

[bo_ghazi]

hummmmm.... I'm speechless!!!
I mean i'm seriously thinking that you're just some guy who wants some attention, so you came up with this sorry a$$ topic just to get some!!!
I can't even believe im commenting on ur post but what the hell!
I was going to mention the various nationalities of people who are friends of mine, but you know what... you aint worth it... oh and one more thing... I truly believe you are a disgrace to America and the American people as well!!

[PALFORCE]

Mark,

I know this would mean the end of my Blogging relationship with you (I hope not) but why are you so offended with that expat?!
It's one thing to disagree with someone and another to attack him and turn it into personal insults.
This person was stating his opinion towards Kuwaitis according to his own personal experience. He might be right or wrong, it’s a matter of opinion, you don’t have the right to attack him and call him names.
No one called you names when you attacked Palestinians and called them backslappers, because it’s merely your own opinion and everyone is entitled to his.
This person might be wrong for generalizing ALL KUWAITIES, but again it’s a matter of opinion.
Again, there are good and bad apples in all races and people, generalizing all Kuwaitis (or any other country for that matter) are merely racism.

Peace

PALFORCE

[Mark]

wow Palforce you are such an unbelievable fuckhead.

[Mark]

this is my reply to you Palforce, basically you are a hypocrit
http://www.248am.com/mark/kuwait/kuwaitis-are-racist/#comments

[Moe]

Wow, you've hit the nail right on the head. You've got it all right. [/sarcasm]

Would you like it if I said that most of the American people were big-headed supremacists? Notice that I used the word 'most'. How dare you label all of us Kuwaitis, when you've only met a few, and apparently the worst of the bunch? You really are ignorant, sir, and maybe it's because of that reason, you're not making any friends. Personally, with an attitude like that, I don't blame us Kuwaitis for not wanting to be nice to a person like you. For goodness' sake. I don't even know why I'm wasting my time with this reply.

Goodbye, Micheal Cornn. Keep your little racist opinions. You're a disgrace to humans everywhere.